Route 127 Yard Sale and other adventures

127 Yard Sale and points beyond…  

Monday, Aug. 1 – Winston-Salem

  Picked up our Ford Edge SUV at Enterprise in Gloucester and were on the road by 10 a.m. heading for Winston-Salem, NC where we would spend the night with Judy’s niece Megan Jessee, the assistant women’s soccer coach at Wake Forest.
  We toured the gardens at Reynolda, once the estate of the R.J. Reynolds family. The gardens, given by the Reynolds to Wake Forest, include 125 acres of woodlands, fields, wetlands, and a 4-acre formal garden with greenhouse. The original estate included over 1,000 acres. Also located off Reynolda Road is the Southeastern Center for Contemporary Art where DIL Debbie works; we took a quick spin over there, too. Debbie off that day, but we were glad to see her place of employment,

especially since I will return there Aug. 25 to hear Gillian Welch perform on the grounds. Megan took us for a driving tour of Wake Forest, what a gorgeous campus. We then went downtown to have pizza at the Mellow Mushroom. Excellent choice.


Tuesday, Aug. 2 – Lovin’ Asheville

  Breakfast with Megan at Mama Zoe’s, then off to Asheville. We hit the ground running, landed at the Visitor Center and immediately took the hop on-hop off tour with driver/guide Michael who instructed us that the last two syllables of Appalachia are pronounced “Lat-Cha.”
  Started off in the Montfort district where Michael frequently pointed out textured “pebble dash” exteriors on some of the upper class homes. It was a technique devised in the late 1800s where cement (stucco) is applied, then pebbles are thrown, or “dashed” onto the wall. We saw Highland Hall, known in 1948 as “Highland Hospital for Nervous Disorders,” where Zelda Fitzgerald frequently stayed. She died with eight other women in a fire that year.

  Learned that Charlton Heston and wife Lydia ran a community theater in Asheville and lived in what is now the Beaufort House B&B Inn on Liberty Street. Got a great drive-by of the Grove Park Inn (1913), now owned by Omni. The Rolls Royce Owners Club was having its 2016 national meet, headquarters at Grove Park, but most were parked at a massive gathering at the Biltmore. Michael said rooms at GP start at $250. Saw several uses of the word “Altamont,” the fictionalized name for Asheville that Thomas Wolfe used in “Look Homeward Angel.”      Wondered what the “French Broad Chocolate Lounge” was all about. Michael said there are 10 million visitors to the city each year.
 On to the River Arts District, where we hopped off and visited a number of galleries. Judy bought her daughter Amy’s gift at Sunnyside Trading Company on Depot Street. We loved the Jonas Gerard gallery—a true artist, he ranged from perfect realism to the outer limits. And we even caught a glimpse of him pulling up in his van.

More galleries and a neat shop where Judy bought me black and white earrings for my birthday. The lady dropped one of them, it broke—she said she could glue it back and cut the price in half. Sold. Alas, it started raining. We hopped back on and finished our tour. Back downtown, came upon the Pubcycle, a 13-person pedaling pub machine. The riders were having a blast, we heard them long before we saw them.

  Checked into our room at the Downtown Inn & Suites on Patton Avenue. Not lavish, but can’t beat the rate for a downtown locale. Sorry to learn that many of the neat shops closed at 6—we didn’t land until 5:30. But we hoofed it down to the Woolworth Walk on Haywood Street stayed as long as we could, then found several shops that didn’t close til 7.

Dinner at Jerusalem Garden Café, perfect choice. We sat on well-padded bench seats by the front window with a great view of Patton/College Avenues. Split a chicken/lamb/beef kabob dish with delicious accompaniments when what to our wondering eyes should appear but a shirtless man and his HALF shirtless female friend strolling down the sidewalk. They were chatting like all couples do, while the woman’s breast (not all that perky for public viewing) waved at us all. The wife of a man seated near us had just left for the bathroom, he called her to come see, but she ignored him. We shook our heads, then all agreed that we really had seen what we had seen. Our new friend shared the remainder of his bottle of wine with us.

Wed, Aug 3 – Likker and Beans

 Now in serious strong coffee withdrawal, I broke out my coffee pot and brewed some Seattle’s Best #5. Lots of continental breakfast choices, including (albeit frozen), sausage biscuits. While we’ve seen plenty of waffle makers (and they were here, too), there was a donut maker here as well, with chocolate batter no less. Tried it, not bad. Google maps navigated us out of Asheville and back on I-40. Destination: Kozy Kabin in Columbia, KY. On a whim decided to depart the interstate and check out Newport, TN. Stopped at the Farmer’s Market, great tomatoes. Another economically depressed town. Spotted two women handcuffed and wearing yellow jumpsuits, accompanied by a deputy. We surmised that they were on their way to an arraignment at the nearby courthouse. Roamed through the old-fashioned hardware store (big sign featured Bedbug Killer), then on to a perpetual yard sale store where I realized that “fluffy” is the new word for plus size. Overpriced, rather depressing. Next stop East Tennessee Coffee Co. Weak coffee, strong wifi.

Judy read about the Popcorn Sutton distillery outside Newport and off we went. Got a brief tour and I bought some Tennessee White Whiskey. Popcorn’s real name was Marvin, he committed suicide in 2009 (age 63) rather than serve a prison sentence. Colorful character. Great read on Wikipedia: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Popcorn_Sutton Any other sites the distillery folks recommend? They suggested the Bush Bean Factory, Chestnut Hill, TN. Ate lunch there, had our photos taken, surprised to see “Duke,” the Bush Bean dog, appear with us in the final pic. We gave Bush marketing people an A+, the visitor center was quite interesting. Called to confirm our stay in Columbia, KY. You’re down for tomorrow night, they said. No vacancies tonight. So we continued on Tennessee I-40, eventually arriving exit #352 at Kingston and a great Super 8.

Thurs, Aug 4 – 127: What Were We Thinking? 


Let the sales begin. Off to exit 317 in Crossville, KY, one of the 127 meccas. In the process we entered the Central Time Zone, which bought us another hour.

  Yikes, the first stop was just a giant flea market. These folks had done this before; most were set up to take Visa/MC. Acres of vendors on both sides of 127 featuring glassware, figurines from Occupied Japan, gasoline cans made before the government made them “safer,” fishing poles, furniture. Did I mention glassware?? When one customer tried to bargain, the proprietor told her no deals on the first day. Lots of Mexican metal yard art, but Judy found the perfect metal flower for a friend—its creator was right there, made in the USA.
  The next massive sale had a southern fried pie booth near the entrance. One man from Maine had an extensive set-up, we marveled at all the work involved in transporting his wares. Nancy bought a $10 Dremel Moto Shop scroll saw; Judy found a wonderful original framed sketch that desperately needed re-framing. Slight mishap with a large metal trashcan when backing out of the parking space that removed a plastic piece of our vehicle. We picked it up and threw it in the back. Judy said she’d bought extra insurance, not to worry.

Menacing black clouds as we headed north on 127. Lots of sales off the main route. We pulled into Tolletts Chapel to eat our snacks and were greeted by yet another sale. Things were starting to look the same by now. Farther northward on 127 we found a smaller venue where Nancy found something on her shopping list—a chandelier, $18, it even had three of those expensive, last-forever light bulbs installed.

More signs for fried pies. A local radio station referred to “pop-up” rain showers, an apt description as we continued to dodge them. Passed signs for Cordell Hull’s birthplace and the Sgt. Alvin York museum and visitor center. Our diet for the day consisted of water, BBQ pork rinds, ice cream cones and FRIED PIES—we finally succumbed in the Desda (near Albany) area of Kentucky. The man we bought them from said his mother began drying the apples in late summer and fall to make them for the following summer. Delicious and off-the-chart calories. Saw a sign for Wolf Creek Dam Overlook, well worth the detour.

We later took 127 over the dam and at some point entered Eastern Standard Time again. Saw rainbow off and on for about half hour near Jamestown, KY. Arrived Nicholasville, KY around 8 p.m. in time to enjoy a heavenly quiche made by host John Berryman (my friend Liz Taylor’s nephew). John and Gerria treated us royally, we had our own rooms and wifi!






 Fri, Aug 5 – The Ark: What were we thinking?

Judy and I had both heard about The Ark in Williamstown, KY (about 50 miles north of Lexington on I-75) and were intrigued, so decided to check it out. It cost $10 to park, then we had to hike up to admissions and plunk down more money—$40 for adults (begins at age 13), $31 for seniors 60+. (Plus tax, of course.)
  Then we rode a bus up to the ark area and walked farther over to the ark, where we stood in line for at least 45 minutes before finally encountering bird squawks in cages, I think this was Level 1 (there are three levels). The serpentine line went on forever and there was no audio or visual to let us in on the big ark secret. Lots of  of families and church groups. Plenty of time to read t-shirts: “I believe,” “Faithfulness and Facial Hair – Duck Dynasty,” “Missionaries for Christ World Outreach Church, Chicago,” “With God, all things are possible.”

One handicapped fellow in a rented mobility scooter from the Ark ran out of power, unable to continue his ascent. The back of his shirt read: “I aint afraid of nothing because I believe I got a sky full of angels watching over me.”

From the Wall Street Journal: “Landlocked in the Kentucky hills, just outside of Williamstown (population, less than 4,000) and 40 miles from Cincinnati, is a 10-story-high, 510-foot-long wooden ship. Its interior beams are trunks of trees: 55-foot-long logs of spruce and fir with diameters of up to 38 inches. Seventy-five Amish craftsmen executed the specialized construction, creating what is being called ‘the largest timber-frame building in the world.’”

We spotted a number of folks we thought were Mennonite but perhaps they were Amish, since they were involved in the construction.

We became less enamored as we climbed, thankful Noah thought to include wifi so we could entertain ourselves. More [stationary] animals, finally some label copy. On the top floor are the living quarters, quite opulent, and explained thusly:”...they worked hard taking care of the animals every day. Having a comfortable place to relax and refresh would be extremely beneficial for keeping up morale and energy for all the hard labor they faced.”

Saturday, Aug 6 - Goodbye Kentucky Said goodbye to our supreme hosts and headed toward Lexington and the Restore. Success! Judy found her barstools and they were only $15 each. Skinny people must have sat on them, their caned bottoms were in excellent condition. I found some free paint, including a quart of white primer. Then we explored a co-op food store, sampled several blends of coffee and bought some smoked applewood salt for steaks we had home in the freezer. I found some biscuits for the NC granddogs and treats for grandcat Cody. Next checked out Kentucky Candy across the street. Gerria had recommended their chocolate covered frozen grapes so Judy bought some. They were okay, but not exciting. Google got us to I-64 and we headed east. Judy synced her phone to the car’s Bluetooth and we listened to several podcasts as we rounded one mountain after another. Marveled at a runaway truck ramp that had a CURVE in it! It rained so hard Judy had to pull off, we took shelter in a parking garage at the VA Center in Beckley, WV. Finally let up and we exited in Lewisburg, WV for a quick spin around the town, then took route 60 toward The Greenbrier in White Sulphur Springs. Evidence of the devastating flood was everywhere. Passed a huge pile of cars that had been ruined by the flood. Some homes now gutted and empty, large sections of route 60 patched with temporary repairs, debris still lined the roadside. At The Greenbrier, things looked pretty good except for the golf course—there were large patches of brown, where Howard’s Creek had swept away turf and more. The New Orleans Saints have a summer training facility at The Greenbrier’s Sports Performance Center. We encountered defensive lineman Tyeler Davison near the north entrance, where he happily posed for a photo with Judy and me—taken by his proud Dad. Back to I-64 and the West Rock Budget Inn, located diagonally across Jackson River from the paper mill that is the economic driver for Covington, also called West Rock. We knew there was a paper mill nearby even before we spotted the gigantic facility… Our room was clean, good sized fridge with separate freezer and a nearly new microwave. Area motels were sky high, this was the best we could do. Horrendous taxes, our $80 room morphed into $100. Biggest complaint—the noisy bathroom fan that we had to endure if we wanted a light in the bathroom. After quizzing the owner about nearby dining options, we had pizza delivered, drank wine and watched “You’ve Got Mail.” We were done. Sunday, April 7 Our innkeeper made us Starbucks coffee! We had a nice chat with him and his wife, she is growing all kinds of interesting veggies, mostly in pots—they have to share at least 50 percent with the ground hogs. We ate breakfast at the Mountain View Hotel (where we were also reminded of the nearby paper mill) and read about Falling Spring Falls only five miles out of Covington on route 220. Gorgeous and easily accessible from an overlook. And then back home.

families and church groups. Plenty of time to read t-shirts: “I believe,” “Faithfulness and Facial Hair – Duck Dynasty,” “Missionaries for Christ World Outreach Church, Chicago,” “With God, all things are possible.” One handicapped fellow in a rented mobility scooter from the Ark ran out of power, unable to continue his ascent. The back of his shirt read: “I aint afraid of nothing because I believe I got a sky full of angels watching over me.” From the Wall Street Journal: “Landlocked in the Kentucky hills, just outside of Williamstown (population, less than 4,000) and 40 miles from Cincinnati, is a 10-story-high, 510-foot-long wooden ship. Its interior beams are trunks of trees: 55-foot-long logs of spruce and fir with diameters of up to 38 inches. Seventy-five Amish craftsmen executed the specialized construction, creating what is being called ‘the largest timber-frame building in the world.’” We spotted a number of folks we thought were Mennonite but perhaps they were Amish, since they were involved in the construction. We became less enamored as we climbed, thankful Noah thought to include wifi so we could entertain ourselves. More [stationary] animals, finally some label copy. On the top floor are the living quarters, quite opulent, and explained thusly:”...they worked hard taking care of the animals every day. Having a comfortable place to relax and refresh would be extremely beneficial for keeping up morale and energy for all the hard labor they faced.” Back to 127, more mind-numbing, same old-same old collectibles and toys. But we did find one gem off the beaten path—it was across from the Peter W. Pfeiffer Fish Hatchery outside of Frankfort and the man having the sale had just retired from the hatchery. Judy bought something significant, but I can’t remember what except that it was Japanese. He had great stuff, he also helped a woman identify a plant, he called it “Hearts a Bursting,” said it was a Kentucky native. Wikipedia calls it Euonymus americanus, or Strawberry Bush. We didn’t notice it, but I wish we had after seeing photos. Last stop was in front of a double-wide. I discovered another chandelier. “You can have it for two dollars,” the woman called over. I couldn’t resist, it had the pewter-like finish I wanted. There was stuff strewn throughout the yard—one row contained items we could cram in a plastic Wal-Mart bag for a dollar. I got a small plastic apron for Maura (Gerria’s hearing service dog who paints for charity), plus sunglasses for the Berrymans’ grandkids. Also stuffed in a nice animal print tote bag with an original price tag of $29.95. Soothing drive back to Nicholasville. We nearly overdosed on the scenery, rolling green pastures with handsome horse barns and farms. Loved the little town of Versailles—pronounced “ver-SALES,” by the locals. We four dined at Willie’s bbq on Southland Drive in Lexington. I was dying to try their “burnt ends,” which are cut off their brisket. Sold out an hour before, our waitress said. I got ribs which were close to being burned but still tender just below. Stared, clueless, at the giant screen featuring the opening ceremonies of the Olympics. Without narration, they were downright bizarre. John drove us by the Habitat for Humanity Restore—maybe we would find Judy’s barstools there in the morning.

Toothless in Philadelphia

Tues, Aug 16, 2011
Exited 95 onto North Broad (#17) and found The Independent at 1234 Locust Street in Center City. There is no ground floor lobby; instead you take the elevator to the second floor reception area. We were on the 5th (top) floor; there are only 24 rooms. Our corner room hinted of luxury: hardwood floors, heavy drapes, animal print rugs, dark wood furnishings. Shower with dual showerheads, sans tub which
provided more space in the bathroom, ceramic tile, thick towels.
A light continental breakfast is served--we indicated our choices and desired serving time on a form and each morning the basket of goodies arrived outside the door promptly. Only minus was that awful pod coffee maker in the room but the lobby had an excellent dark roast available 24/7.
A black Maserati with the license plate “Il Duce” was parked outside soon after we arrived. Mussolini follower?? No, a Google search revealed that Il Duce is a rapper (and apparently a successful one if he can afford that car).
We found Fuel, a cafe on Walnut Street that promises nothing over 500 calories. Had tasty spinach salad with berries and sugared walnuts. It also gives the WW points for each selection. Strolled around, taking in the beautiful architecture as well as some of the murals that are part of Philly’s Mural Arts Program--the city is said to have the most murals (over 3,000) in the world. A phone number is listed at the
bottom of some of the murals--you can call on your cellphone, then plug in the corresponding number and hear a description of the mural. We were impressed.
Back for the wine and cheese (6:30-8:30 Mon thru Thurs) and an early night.

Wed, Aug 17
Yet another day without the usual August heat. We walked down Broad, a k a Avenue of the Arts, sad that the theaters are dark in August. Soon arrived at South Street and headed for Magic Gardens. Oh no, they don’t open until 11.
No problem, we kept on walking to the 500 block where Nancy had Googled a Goodwill.
Must have been an old website, no sign of a Goodwill here. Lots of intriguing stores, but most didn’t open until 2 or 3. We felt like we'd been transported to another country

While nibbling on something, Eve’s bottom front tooth crown came off, so we found a CVS and bought some cement. Sat in front of Starbucks while she tried to fasten it back on. By the time the crown was replaced (sitting up a little higher now), it was time for Magic Gardens, (from the brochure) a fully mosaiced indoor gallery and a massive outdoor labyrinthine mosaic sculpture. The installation, primarily consisting of found objects and contributions from the community, covers half a city block with myriads of tile, texture, and color. A walk through the labyrinth will reveal sculptures from Latin America and Asia, bicycle wheels from local South Street shop Via Bicycles, Zagar's hand-made tiles, and mirrors of every shape and size.

The creator, Isaiah Zagar, is one of those driven outsider artists (though he has a BFA) who can’t stop. We were fascinated, it’s one of those “you had to be there” things. An excellent video was available showing some of his techniques and classes. His son made an HBO documentary, not altogether flattering, that is available on Netflix called “In a Dream," which explores his father's vision(s) and obsessions.
We oohed and awed so long we needed a break so went to the Loving Hut, a vegan restaurant just down the street. On her second dumpling Eve’s eyes widened. “I
swallowed my crown, I’ve got to find a dentist. Didn’t we pass one?”
“Uh, yeah, I think so,” Nancy sputtered.
Eve asked the eatery gals, who barely knew English, if there was a dentist nearby. No, they said.
She threw a 20-dollar bill on the table and bolted out in search of help.
This too shall pass, Nancy mused.
While Eve searched for a dentist, Nancy took a different route back to the Magic Gardens, discovering more murals and mosaics as well as Zagar’s studio on Kater Street. Some of the mosaics are obscured by vegetation, others cover walls of
storage alcoves full of equipment and garbage cans. Tis said that he got a life’s supply of hats when he mosaiced a South Street hat shop.
Remembered the Eve-Nancy travel mantra: Not Joined At The Hip, Nancy went back to some of those beguiling shops that had been closed earlier, figuring she and Eve would catch up at some point. Later she passed a DENTIST and stopped in. Sure enough, they said Eve had been there but there was nothing they could do
Nancy found Sota Spirit of the Artist shop on Pine Street, great place full of original art and bought a dog pin for Eve to help lessen the stress of being toothless..

Nancy found the Louise I. Kahn park at 11th & Pine, a serene setting with lots of empty benches, and wrote postcards, checked email and marveled at this wonderful city and spectacular weather. Eve didn’t have Nancy’s new cellphone number; Nancy called Eve and left message, then headed back to hotel.
In a few minutes she spotted Eve crossing the street at 11th and Walnut.
Reunited, they set off, trying not to go down the same street twice if they could help it. Found a stationery store where Eve bought clever greeting cards. A local character wandered in and out, treated with great kindness and respect by the store clerk. It could have been Kilmarnock!

Nancy gasped when she saw the Blick store, paradise to art supply-starved folks in the hinterlands. What an inventory! But then why not, Philly has an abundance of artists. Eve bought some sketching materials; Nancy, a decent brush and a starter mosaic kit.
Back to Fuel for some tasty smoothies, then on to the hotel and the social hour(s). A couple came in soon after we did. “Ladies, what would you like?” asked the gal. We told her she didn’t have to wait on us. “I’m a flight attendant, that’s what I do,” she said, deftly handling that confounded corkscrew.
So we met US Airways flight attendant Brenda and her pilot husband Bill and proceeded to have a great time. Loved their tales of letterboxing in Scotland and learned that the crew can have flights from hell, too. The gal on the hotel desk frequently joined in, that’s how intimate the setting is at the Independent.
Thurs, Aug 18
Oh no, it’s raining. Let’s hope the rain before 7 adage holds true and it’ll be clear by 11. Enjoyed our continental breakfast, delivered promptly.
Soon we’re off to the Philadelphia Museum of Art.
Didn’t navigate the circle and ended up in the Mantua area where we spied a banner proclaiming “Spiral Q’s Living Loft and Studio.” Found a place to park but when we walked up, a gal entering the studio said appointment only. We were struck by the gingko and willow trees growing nearby, this area is definitely in the (we hope) ascension.

Successfully navigated the circle this time and found the museum parking garage.
Walked up the Rocky steps and once in, were overwhelmed at our options. We wisely took the free introductory tour and were the only people who signed up. Our guide did an excellent job, this place is so big and she gave us a great overview, we probably would not have covered all the areas on our own. Then we were free to revisit the galleries we wanted. Lunch in the cafeteria, perused the overpriced items in the museum shops and headed back to Virginia.

Two days in Baltimore

Sun, Aug 14, 2011
Arrived at the Mt. Vernon Hotel,
24 W. Franklin, suited our purposes perfectly. We soon set out for the Walters Art Museum around the corner; ate dinner at the City Café at Eager and Cathedral Streets, it was recommended by a man at the Walters. Great menu and service, eclectic area.
Strolled east on Eager, spotted a sign atop a building: “Drop the gun or pick a room.” Had we wandered into a less desirable neighborhood?
Different route back to hotel, stopped at the Mount Vernon Park, home of the original Washington monument (built in 1815). Spotted the FREE Charm City Circulator bus and
headed north on Charles Street to Penn Station, then back down St. Paul/Light Street, then back up Charles, getting off at Hamilton. Few people on board, so we each took a window seat. One interesting rider was reading a book called "Going to Extremes."
Mon, Aug 15
Woke up to thunderstorms and torrential showers, excellent hot breakfast at the hotel in well-appointed dining room. Eve donned her poncho and took off to find St. Jude’s shrine, located not far away on Saratoga. She turned left instead of right and had a lengthy, wet, but [she said] enjoyable odyssey. St. Jude would have to wait.
Off to American Visionary Art Museum (www.avam.org/) on Key Highway near Inner Harbor, skies clear by now. (Rain before 7, clear by 11). Caught the CC Connector and were there in no time. Walked up Federal Hill, great spot to look over the Inner Harbor. AVAM closed on Mondays! Now what?
Waited by the Rusty Scupper for the Water Taxi, got tired of waiting and walked toward the center of harbor activities, discovering that the Seadog speedboat cruise would take off in 15 minutes. A busload of teen/preteen boys headed toward the other bright yellow Seadog and we breathed a sigh of relief that the boisterous boys would not be on our boat. Tassels peeked out from their shirts indicating that they were orthodox Jews, we wondered if it was a school group.
Alas, they were redirected to our boat and took nearly every available seat. “Hold on to your yarmulkes,” said their leader and we were off. The young man sitting next to Eve wore a green yarmulke and said he was from Belgium and that the kids were from a Jewish camp in Pennsylvania. Much of the trip was spent crawling out of the no-wake zone, giving the guide time to point out sights on the 50-
minute ride. (The dot over the i in the Domino Sugar sign is over 6 feet.) Once out of the zone, the boat picked up speed, with much splashing and jostling as we slapped the waves.

Off to Best Buy for phone charger, then ate at P.F. Chang’s next door. Good food, and hostess charged Nancy’s phone. Checked out Filene’s Basement, uninspired. Found the Goodwill, but it was headquarters, not retail. Trek wasn’t in vain, we loved the architecture.
CC Connector back to hotel, stopped in Bedazzled, a bead shop with a huge inventory of stones, beads and findings. We had to press the bell and were buzzed in. Nancy bought makings for two pairs of earrings.
Dropped off our stuff and Eve headed for St. Jude’s and Nancy for the Lexington Market.

Shrine was closed and the market was a disappointment. Nancy was looking for some good cheese but the only options were American and Swiss. The market closes at 6 and we were amazed at the large amount of fresh seafood and chicken left over-sure wouldn’t want to shop there on a Friday. Produce seemed high and nothing was out of the ordinary, though one vendor had muskrat and raccoon (in season).
Nancy bought a scratch $1 lottery ticket and won $5. We stopped in a disreputable liquor store to cash it, never did understand why we couldn’t…
Headed back toward hotel and down Charles Street searching for cheese and finally, like an oasis, spotted Fresh & Green’s at Saratoga and Charles. Nancy bought her Asiago and we went back to the hotel, skipping dinner and nibbling/imbibing instead.

Tues, Aug 16
Another great breakfast, this time in addition to scrambled eggs, bacon and sausage there were thick slices of French toast. And of course the usual fruit, cereals, bagels, juices, English muffins, etc.
Checked out of hotel and headed for AVAM. .

Plentiful metered parking in front of the building (25 cents an hour). Eve joined, earning her two free passes so Nancy got in free. A wedding was in progress in the rear garden

“What Makes us Smile,” the yearlong exhibit that ends Sept 4 is described by AVAM as featuring "...the costumes, cartoons, out-loud & 3-D glee-filled surprises created by 90 artists, imps, and comedians with accompanying essays, factoids, quotes and blurbs that revel in the history and science behind the gift of laughter."
A welcome mat at the entrance is made of dismantled toothbrushes and spells out S M I L E. The cartoon portion of the exhibit included one for a clinic for alcoholics labeled Detox and one for narcissists labeled Metox. Another pictured a dour clerk telling a customer: “This is a feminist bookstore, there is no humor section here." And at the OCD clinic there was a sign, “Please turn light off when leaving, and on and off and on and off and on and off and on and off….”
Of course there were Whoopee cushions to the delight of the young and not-so-young visitors.

What's not to love about AVAM, can't wait for their next special exhibit. Exited Baltimore and had an easy drive to Philly.

Monday in Manteo

Monday in Manteo (May 10)
View of sunrise from our room. Nice Continental breakfast, there was one hot offering: sausage biscuits. No other takers for the 11 a.m. cruise on the Downeast Rover, a 55-ft schooner based at the Manteo waterfront that sails Roanoke Sound so left our phone number in hopes for an afternoon sail.
Plan B was the Elizabethan Gardens, a serene spot with gardens, paths, benches, water-view gazebo and small nursery. This place is never a disappointment. I can visit a big garden center and walk out empty-handed, but I’ve never left EG without at least one plant (this time five).
Afterward visited the Manteo Hotline Thrift shop, for Amy apparel but found nothing so headed over to Nags Head to another Hotline—this one across from the Ben Franklin (MP 10). Got a few things, back to Tanger Mall, bought a skirt at Dress Barn. Lunch at a KFC/Taco Bell combo at MP 16 when Kim called—we could sail at 3 p.m.
So off we went at 3 on the Downeast Rover. My Sanyo camera jammed, the second one to have lens freeze. Great sailing day though cool. We sailed into the Roanoke Sound, the helmsman had to be extra vigilant dodging crabpots, which were everywhere, including the channel. The first mate, Brian, also works at the restaurant 1587, which is part of the Tranquil House Inn, though closed on Mondays.
Dining choices limited on Mondays, so back to the Full Moon Café, though this time we studied the menu in advance and our bill was half the previous night’s!

Mothers Day in Manteo

Bought two quarts of strawberries at the Grandy market, arrived Manteo 2 p.m., temps in mid-sixties, cloudless blue sky. Bought ice cream cones at appropriately named shop: Mother's Money.
Sat on a bench near the water and people-watched, then checked into the Tranquil House Inn (405 Queen Elizabeth Ave). Great corner room.
Found Fine Yarns at Kimbeeba (207 Budleigh)for Amy's yarn fix, enjoyed wine and cheese in the Inn's hospitality room, then ate at the Full Moon Cafe, 208 Queen Eliz Ave (A-Filet Mignon; N-Ribeye), food good, service slow, they weren't that busy.


Great walk around Manteo, so quiet. Looked for all the town cats, only found one. Back to the room, Amy took a long hot bath, it felt good on her neck and back.

Clueless in Central Florida

Debated route to I-95 from southwest Florida--looked like I-75 to I-4 to I-95 should work. Easy trip until about 18 miles west of Daytona when traffic halted, then moved forward, occasionally surging to 35, then back to 3 mph.
Oh no, could it be? I called Amy.
"When is the Daytona 500?"
"Today," she said.
Mystery solved. An exit appeared, but I figured I'd be better off on the road more traveled. Not.
And from that point on, every illegal U-turn spot had a cop stationed next to it!
Took over two hours to go about 18 miles.
Note to self: When traveling in Florida in February, note Nascar dates.
Only made it to Richmond Hill, GA before crashing.

Fantastic Fakahatchee

Left Key Largo before daylight for the Fakahatchee Strand, a FL state park off Rte 29 between I-75 and the Tamiami Trail, and the orchid/bromeliad capital of the U.S. Fourteen of us had signed up for the Swamp Walk sponsored by the Friends of Fakahatchee--$50 a pop for non FOF members and led by park biologist Mike Owen. A 16-year veteran, he continues to be awed by this place.

We all carried PVC pipe walking sticks, though Mike's had measurements on his. "Two feet," he would cry as we groaned and slogged through the cold water, often tripping over submerged cypress knees.

"Oh! Two and a half!" More groans. Two folks fell down, one man's wet khakis revealed his blue and white striped boxer shorts beneath.
No way to take notes or many photos, we were too afraid we'd fall.


We saw the famed ghost orchid, though not in bloom (only blooms for a week in July), also night-scented orchid and many others. Tons of bromeliads (epiphytes). Noticed on the board there is a "Fuchs bromeliad," but he didn't point it out.

My fellow walkers had one funny quip after another. No humorless botanists here, just jovial nature lovers. One man said he was becoming cold-blooded from standing in the water so long.

I wore a pair of thrift shop $4 Nikes; had to throw away the blackend socks. Goodwill waterproof pants worked great.

Weather in the low 60s, we all got a bit chilled when standing for any length of time in the cold water. Mike said temps got down to record-setting 28 degrees in January.

No rooms available in Everglades City, I found an Italian motel called "Conty's" on Tamiami Trail near Naples. The proprietor was talking to her sister in Rome on Skype when I came in.