Tues, Aug 16, 2011
Exited 95 onto North Broad (#17) and found The Independent at 1234 Locust Street in Center City. There is no ground floor lobby; instead you take the elevator to the second floor reception area. We were on the 5th (top) floor; there are only 24 rooms. Our corner room hinted of luxury: hardwood floors, heavy drapes, animal print rugs, dark wood furnishings. Shower with dual showerheads, sans tub which
provided more space in the bathroom, ceramic tile, thick towels.
A light continental breakfast is served--we indicated our choices and desired serving time on a form and each morning the basket of goodies arrived outside the door promptly. Only minus was that awful pod coffee maker in the room but the lobby had an excellent dark roast available 24/7.
A black Maserati with the license plate “Il Duce” was parked outside soon after we arrived. Mussolini follower?? No, a Google search revealed that Il Duce is a rapper (and apparently a successful one if he can afford that car).
We found Fuel, a cafe on Walnut Street that promises nothing over 500 calories. Had tasty spinach salad with berries and sugared walnuts. It also gives the WW points for each selection. Strolled around, taking in the beautiful architecture as well as some of the murals that are part of Philly’s Mural Arts Program--the city is said to have the most murals (over 3,000) in the world. A phone number is listed at the
bottom of some of the murals--you can call on your cellphone, then plug in the corresponding number and hear a description of the mural. We were impressed.
Back for the wine and cheese (6:30-8:30 Mon thru Thurs) and an early night.
Wed, Aug 17
Yet another day without the usual August heat. We walked down Broad, a k a Avenue of the Arts, sad that the theaters are dark in August. Soon arrived at South Street and headed for Magic Gardens. Oh no, they don’t open until 11.
No problem, we kept on walking to the 500 block where Nancy had Googled a Goodwill.
Must have been an old website, no sign of a Goodwill here. Lots of intriguing stores, but most didn’t open until 2 or 3. We felt like we'd been transported to another country
While nibbling on something, Eve’s bottom front tooth crown came off, so we found a CVS and bought some cement. Sat in front of Starbucks while she tried to fasten it back on. By the time the crown was replaced (sitting up a little higher now), it was time for Magic Gardens, (from the brochure) a fully mosaiced indoor gallery and a massive outdoor labyrinthine mosaic sculpture. The installation, primarily consisting of found objects and contributions from the community, covers half a city block with myriads of tile, texture, and color. A walk through the labyrinth will reveal sculptures from Latin America and Asia, bicycle wheels from local South Street shop Via Bicycles, Zagar's hand-made tiles, and mirrors of every shape and size.
The creator, Isaiah Zagar, is one of those driven outsider artists (though he has a BFA) who can’t stop. We were fascinated, it’s one of those “you had to be there” things. An excellent video was available showing some of his techniques and classes. His son made an HBO documentary, not altogether flattering, that is available on Netflix called “In a Dream," which explores his father's vision(s) and obsessions.
We oohed and awed so long we needed a break so went to the Loving Hut, a vegan restaurant just down the street. On her second dumpling Eve’s eyes widened. “I
swallowed my crown, I’ve got to find a dentist. Didn’t we pass one?”
“Uh, yeah, I think so,” Nancy sputtered.
Eve asked the eatery gals, who barely knew English, if there was a dentist nearby. No, they said.
She threw a 20-dollar bill on the table and bolted out in search of help.
This too shall pass, Nancy mused.
While Eve searched for a dentist, Nancy took a different route back to the Magic Gardens, discovering more murals and mosaics as well as Zagar’s studio on Kater Street. Some of the mosaics are obscured by vegetation, others cover walls of
storage alcoves full of equipment and garbage cans. Tis said that he got a life’s supply of hats when he mosaiced a South Street hat shop.
Remembered the Eve-Nancy travel mantra: Not Joined At The Hip, Nancy went back to some of those beguiling shops that had been closed earlier, figuring she and Eve would catch up at some point. Later she passed a DENTIST and stopped in. Sure enough, they said Eve had been there but there was nothing they could do
Nancy found Sota Spirit of the Artist shop on Pine Street, great place full of original art and bought a dog pin for Eve to help lessen the stress of being toothless..
Nancy found the Louise I. Kahn park at 11th & Pine, a serene setting with lots of empty benches, and wrote postcards, checked email and marveled at this wonderful city and spectacular weather. Eve didn’t have Nancy’s new cellphone number; Nancy called Eve and left message, then headed back to hotel.
In a few minutes she spotted Eve crossing the street at 11th and Walnut.
Reunited, they set off, trying not to go down the same street twice if they could help it. Found a stationery store where Eve bought clever greeting cards. A local character wandered in and out, treated with great kindness and respect by the store clerk. It could have been Kilmarnock!
Nancy gasped when she saw the Blick store, paradise to art supply-starved folks in the hinterlands. What an inventory! But then why not, Philly has an abundance of artists. Eve bought some sketching materials; Nancy, a decent brush and a starter mosaic kit.
Back to Fuel for some tasty smoothies, then on to the hotel and the social hour(s). A couple came in soon after we did. “Ladies, what would you like?” asked the gal. We told her she didn’t have to wait on us. “I’m a flight attendant, that’s what I do,” she said, deftly handling that confounded corkscrew.
So we met US Airways flight attendant Brenda and her pilot husband Bill and proceeded to have a great time. Loved their tales of letterboxing in Scotland and learned that the crew can have flights from hell, too. The gal on the hotel desk frequently joined in, that’s how intimate the setting is at the Independent.
Thurs, Aug 18
Oh no, it’s raining. Let’s hope the rain before 7 adage holds true and it’ll be clear by 11. Enjoyed our continental breakfast, delivered promptly.
Soon we’re off to the Philadelphia Museum of Art.
Didn’t navigate the circle and ended up in the Mantua area where we spied a banner proclaiming “Spiral Q’s Living Loft and Studio.” Found a place to park but when we walked up, a gal entering the studio said appointment only. We were struck by the gingko and willow trees growing nearby, this area is definitely in the (we hope) ascension.
Successfully navigated the circle this time and found the museum parking garage.
Walked up the Rocky steps and once in, were overwhelmed at our options. We wisely took the free introductory tour and were the only people who signed up. Our guide did an excellent job, this place is so big and she gave us a great overview, we probably would not have covered all the areas on our own. Then we were free to revisit the galleries we wanted. Lunch in the cafeteria, perused the overpriced items in the museum shops and headed back to Virginia.
Exited 95 onto North Broad (#17) and found The Independent at 1234 Locust Street in Center City. There is no ground floor lobby; instead you take the elevator to the second floor reception area. We were on the 5th (top) floor; there are only 24 rooms. Our corner room hinted of luxury: hardwood floors, heavy drapes, animal print rugs, dark wood furnishings. Shower with dual showerheads, sans tub which
provided more space in the bathroom, ceramic tile, thick towels.
A light continental breakfast is served--we indicated our choices and desired serving time on a form and each morning the basket of goodies arrived outside the door promptly. Only minus was that awful pod coffee maker in the room but the lobby had an excellent dark roast available 24/7.
A black Maserati with the license plate “Il Duce” was parked outside soon after we arrived. Mussolini follower?? No, a Google search revealed that Il Duce is a rapper (and apparently a successful one if he can afford that car).
We found Fuel, a cafe on Walnut Street that promises nothing over 500 calories. Had tasty spinach salad with berries and sugared walnuts. It also gives the WW points for each selection. Strolled around, taking in the beautiful architecture as well as some of the murals that are part of Philly’s Mural Arts Program--the city is said to have the most murals (over 3,000) in the world. A phone number is listed at the
bottom of some of the murals--you can call on your cellphone, then plug in the corresponding number and hear a description of the mural. We were impressed.
Back for the wine and cheese (6:30-8:30 Mon thru Thurs) and an early night.
Wed, Aug 17
Yet another day without the usual August heat. We walked down Broad, a k a Avenue of the Arts, sad that the theaters are dark in August. Soon arrived at South Street and headed for Magic Gardens. Oh no, they don’t open until 11.
No problem, we kept on walking to the 500 block where Nancy had Googled a Goodwill.
Must have been an old website, no sign of a Goodwill here. Lots of intriguing stores, but most didn’t open until 2 or 3. We felt like we'd been transported to another country
While nibbling on something, Eve’s bottom front tooth crown came off, so we found a CVS and bought some cement. Sat in front of Starbucks while she tried to fasten it back on. By the time the crown was replaced (sitting up a little higher now), it was time for Magic Gardens, (from the brochure) a fully mosaiced indoor gallery and a massive outdoor labyrinthine mosaic sculpture. The installation, primarily consisting of found objects and contributions from the community, covers half a city block with myriads of tile, texture, and color. A walk through the labyrinth will reveal sculptures from Latin America and Asia, bicycle wheels from local South Street shop Via Bicycles, Zagar's hand-made tiles, and mirrors of every shape and size.
The creator, Isaiah Zagar, is one of those driven outsider artists (though he has a BFA) who can’t stop. We were fascinated, it’s one of those “you had to be there” things. An excellent video was available showing some of his techniques and classes. His son made an HBO documentary, not altogether flattering, that is available on Netflix called “In a Dream," which explores his father's vision(s) and obsessions.
We oohed and awed so long we needed a break so went to the Loving Hut, a vegan restaurant just down the street. On her second dumpling Eve’s eyes widened. “I
swallowed my crown, I’ve got to find a dentist. Didn’t we pass one?”
“Uh, yeah, I think so,” Nancy sputtered.
Eve asked the eatery gals, who barely knew English, if there was a dentist nearby. No, they said.
She threw a 20-dollar bill on the table and bolted out in search of help.
This too shall pass, Nancy mused.
While Eve searched for a dentist, Nancy took a different route back to the Magic Gardens, discovering more murals and mosaics as well as Zagar’s studio on Kater Street. Some of the mosaics are obscured by vegetation, others cover walls of
storage alcoves full of equipment and garbage cans. Tis said that he got a life’s supply of hats when he mosaiced a South Street hat shop.
Remembered the Eve-Nancy travel mantra: Not Joined At The Hip, Nancy went back to some of those beguiling shops that had been closed earlier, figuring she and Eve would catch up at some point. Later she passed a DENTIST and stopped in. Sure enough, they said Eve had been there but there was nothing they could do
Nancy found Sota Spirit of the Artist shop on Pine Street, great place full of original art and bought a dog pin for Eve to help lessen the stress of being toothless..
Nancy found the Louise I. Kahn park at 11th & Pine, a serene setting with lots of empty benches, and wrote postcards, checked email and marveled at this wonderful city and spectacular weather. Eve didn’t have Nancy’s new cellphone number; Nancy called Eve and left message, then headed back to hotel.
In a few minutes she spotted Eve crossing the street at 11th and Walnut.
Reunited, they set off, trying not to go down the same street twice if they could help it. Found a stationery store where Eve bought clever greeting cards. A local character wandered in and out, treated with great kindness and respect by the store clerk. It could have been Kilmarnock!
Nancy gasped when she saw the Blick store, paradise to art supply-starved folks in the hinterlands. What an inventory! But then why not, Philly has an abundance of artists. Eve bought some sketching materials; Nancy, a decent brush and a starter mosaic kit.
Back to Fuel for some tasty smoothies, then on to the hotel and the social hour(s). A couple came in soon after we did. “Ladies, what would you like?” asked the gal. We told her she didn’t have to wait on us. “I’m a flight attendant, that’s what I do,” she said, deftly handling that confounded corkscrew.
So we met US Airways flight attendant Brenda and her pilot husband Bill and proceeded to have a great time. Loved their tales of letterboxing in Scotland and learned that the crew can have flights from hell, too. The gal on the hotel desk frequently joined in, that’s how intimate the setting is at the Independent.
Thurs, Aug 18
Oh no, it’s raining. Let’s hope the rain before 7 adage holds true and it’ll be clear by 11. Enjoyed our continental breakfast, delivered promptly.
Soon we’re off to the Philadelphia Museum of Art.
Didn’t navigate the circle and ended up in the Mantua area where we spied a banner proclaiming “Spiral Q’s Living Loft and Studio.” Found a place to park but when we walked up, a gal entering the studio said appointment only. We were struck by the gingko and willow trees growing nearby, this area is definitely in the (we hope) ascension.
Successfully navigated the circle this time and found the museum parking garage.
Walked up the Rocky steps and once in, were overwhelmed at our options. We wisely took the free introductory tour and were the only people who signed up. Our guide did an excellent job, this place is so big and she gave us a great overview, we probably would not have covered all the areas on our own. Then we were free to revisit the galleries we wanted. Lunch in the cafeteria, perused the overpriced items in the museum shops and headed back to Virginia.
